French climbing grades to v scale A 5+ (sometimes graded as 5b or 5c) can be converted into a V2 bouldering grade on the V-scale. The Font 6b grade, aka French 6b, in the French grading scale. Conversion Chart: YSD vs. In general, theCrag displays grades as they are entered and in the area specific context. The two systems correspond to each other more or less directly. Though Fritz Benesch’s 1894 scale was simple, it was only 1 to 7. To my surprise V5 converts to 7b and V6 to 7c in the french scale. Apr 27, 2025 · The V Scale is different from other climbing grades like the French or Font system used frequently in Europe. Let’s take a closer look at the two most commonly used grading systems in sport climbing: the French scale and the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS). Dec 28, 2021 · The aptly-named Fontainebleau scale started in the de facto birthplace of bouldering. However, over time, it became clear that Gill’s grading system was incapable of defining accurate grades for the complexity of boulders being climbed. The scale may appear similar to the French rating scale, but the top grade in the British scale is currently 7c, with British grades normally perceived as harder than French grades of the same number. Fontainebleau French. This scale measures the difficulty of a bouldering problem based on its technical demands, as Apr 27, 2025 · Climbing grade systems, including the V scale and French grading scale, help categorize the difficulty of bouldering and sport climbing routes nationwide. The French Grading Scale can be used to determine both sport climbs and boulders. In the 1950s, legendary godfather of American bouldering, John Gill, was grading boulders on a super simple scale ascending from B1 to B3. This degree of challenge is the norm worldwide in bouldering. The current hardest route in a M13 at Helmcken Falls in British Columbia, Canada. YDS USA French Ewbanks Australia/NZ UIAA South Africa British UK; 3rd: 1-1: I: 1: Much like the French sport climbing grading system, the Font scale designates grades using a numeral (3 to 9), a letter (A to C) and - or + symbol. Climbing Grades Calculators " Sports Climbing Converter # Bouldering Converter Apr 27, 2025 · The French 8a+ grade represents the upper end of the sport climbing difficulty scale. What do these grades translate to in V-grade and British system? Jan 31, 2025 · Additionally, the tool bridges different grading systems—such as the French scale, the Yosemite Decimal System (YDS), the V-scale, and the Fontainebleau—using correspondence tables. Feb 26, 2021 · Font grade. The UIAA "Scale of Overall Assessment" dropped its six Roman numbers in favor of the six adjectival grades of the French Alpine System (to avoid confusion with the "UIAA scale") and dominated alpine climbing grading, while the UIAA "Scale of Difficulty in Aided Climbing" – amended and expanded in Yosemite in the 1990s as "new-wave" grades May 31, 2020 · The Nose on El Capitan is 5. This is a bouldering climbing grade conversion chart. I was reading and watching a lot about the V5/V6 plateau that most intermediate climbers hit, and I was expecting this to be around the 6b on the french scale. If you would like to learn more about what bouldering is, please check out our comprehensive guide. You’ll see it used in gyms and crags across the United States. International Climbing Grade Comparison Chart. V Scale. Please visit them on the web at www. The French scale goes from digits to letters—such as 6A, 7B, 8C. com Jan 28, 2022 · Like the YDS, the British scale officially starts at 1, but technical climbing starts at the 4a grade (about 5. To put this into English, V10 corresponds to Font 7C+. National Climbing Classification System (USA): NCCS grades, often called “commitment grades,” indicate the time investment in a route for an “average” climbing team. The YDS breaks down the difficulty of roped climbing routes into 31+ different levels of difficulty. Routes may feel substantially harder than their grade indicates depending on the weather, the length of the route, the type of rock, the whims of the first ascensionist, any number of factors. 6b to V-scale. and French systems, which will be the focus of the remainder of this article. These ranking systems, often referred to as grading systems, provide a standardized way to evaluate the challenge a route represented, the UIAA Scale and the French Scale. Consequently, each system grew in a distinctly different way. Sometimes the authors of the reports have created some new scales blending and blurring the symbols of the UIAA scale up to V+, and then introducing the 6a, 6b, etc. Instead, the highest grade will increase as the sport of bouldering progresses. Comparison Table: Fontainebleau Grade (Font) Approximate V Scale 5+ V2 6a V3 6a+ V4 (Note: As always, grading can be som 3193 South Ranch House Court Gilbert, Arizona 85297 (480) 525-2582 (ALTA) info@altaclimbing. In other situations, however, is intentionally used the UIAA scale with Arabic We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. In the French grading system, a 7a+ is an indication of having done something pretty darn good. The Bouldering V Scale (a. So now im confused. This means that there isn’t one YDS grade per V Scale grade. The V scale is by far the most commonly used grading system for bouldering in the US. Meaning that for example if you look at a crag in Australia you will most likely see sport and trad climbing grades displayed in Ewbanks and bouldering grades in V-scale. Both 6a and 6a+ graded boulders in the font system convert into a V3 bouldering grade in the North American V-scale. The hardest grade currently is the V17 (9a), this is the top end of the sport and it is very rarely achieved. These two scales both attempt to communicate the difficulty of a bouldering problem, though they do so in different ways. The 7a is the median of the advanced range. Bouldering grades: V scale and french grade conversion? Apr 13, 2025 · Climbing Difficulty Ranking IntroductionClimbing is a sport of precision, strength, and mental endurance. In fact, the only difference between the two systems is that the sport grades are written with a lowercase letter, and the Font grades are written with a uppercase letter. Apr 11, 2025 · FRENCH SPORT GRADES. The most popular grading scales are the U. 1. Indoors, grades seem almost plush compared to how they read on rock. Dec 29, 2020 · It prevailed internationally and was renamed in 1968 as the UIAA scale. However, you will find that most indoor rock climbing levels use the French sport climbing grades. Hueco to French grade and French grade to Hueco or VScale to French and French to VScale is the most common conversion climbers are looking for. Climbing grading systems climbed out of multiple rabbit holes at multiple times and from multiple places. This scale is used outdoors and in climbing walls across the UK and Europe, and originated in Fontainebleau, a vast collection of sandstone boulders just south of Paris. The V Scale, or Hueco Scale, is the fundamental grading system for bouldering problems. Jun 5, 2023 · The two most popular grading systems are the V-Scale and the Font-Scale. There are grade systems for bouldering, grade systems for sport climbing, grade systems for aid climbing and so on but even grade systems for the same style don’t always translate well between each other. It begins at V0, with V0 being the grade for the easiest climbs, and increases in value as the moves become more difficult. Top 2 Bouldering Climbing Grades The Vermin Scale (V-Scale) The Vermin Scale, commonly referred to as the V-Scale, is used to grade bouldering problems. But the Font grades on the Rockfax grade chart match up differently to the V grades than the 'French' grades on the rockclimbing. The French scale, also known as the UIAA scale, is widely used in Europe and parts of Asia. It differs from the USA system in that a route that is difficult to protect will get a higher grade. 9 C2, Grade VI. americanalpineclub. The reason being that the width of grades on a specific scale are not comparable or that grades are not linear across the whole scale. Routes graded lower than 4 do exist, but are uncommon. Originally a 6-grade scale, it has been officially open-ended since 1979. I’m not sure if this is a bouldering system or a sport climbing system as the gym has both and I’ve not checked if the high wall has a separate system. There are no letters or secondary grades, just a single number that gets bigger as the routes get harder. This bouldering grades comparison table is designed to help climbers convert from Hueco to French and back to French to V-Scale. Climbers need to demonstrate exceptional strength, technique and endurance to complete these ascents. Like the Font system, it is open-ended. It’s a grade where Feb 4, 2015 · Today I would like to spend a few moments talking about the different climbing grade systems used around the world. —all aim to reflect a combination of physical and technical demands. See full list on guidedolomiti. Explanation. For instance, a V11 on the V-scale would roughly equal an 8a on the French scale. This time metric is graded by the NCCS (National Climbing Classification Scale). a the Vermin Scale) The V-Scale is as follows: V0-V3: Beginner; V4-V6: Intermediate Universal grade conversion Back to contents . The V-Scale is a bouldering grading system used in the United States, while the Fontainebleau system is used in France. Also called the 'French Numerical System', this scale is used to indicate the difficulty of a roped climb. Both systems are designed to help someone understand the relative difficulty of a climb. There’s no standard practice to guide how this comparison should be made. . Mar 24, 2022 · The V-grades and French Fontainebleau grades that are today’s gold standards took time to disseminate, with other scales proposed along the way. It is especially clear and less Bouldering grades are a way to measure the difficulty of climbing problems, helping climbers gauge challenges and track progress. K. Jun 5, 2023 · Indoor climbing grades tend to follow the same grading system as the country that gym is it. Apr 27, 2025 · Copying grades directly over from the 8a to V scale is not straightforward. These help ensure Darth Grader remains accurate and accessible, regardless of climbing style or grade, from moderate beginner routes to the most challenging I was going to say that the two French scales here in the UK are distinguished - There's French (Fr) for routes and Font for bouldering. Bouldering Grades Convert a climbing grade with ease Climbing Grade Converter 🧗 To convert grades, enter the grade into the input, select the grade system (french, yosemite, v-scale) and hit "convert" Mar 17, 2023 · A 5 Font bouldering grade converts to a V1 in the v scale. While the grading systems vary by region—like the Fontainebleau system in Europe or the V-scale in the U. Apr 27, 2025 · The following section will outline the nitty-gritty and provide simple tips for utilizing each scale. Apr 27, 2025 · An equivalent 6b+ on the Font scale would roughly translate to a V4 on the V-scale. Nov 3, 2023 · 6a Boulder to V Scale: For those specifically searching for the "6a to V scale" conversion, here it is: 6a in the Fontainebleau (Font) grading system is approximately equivalent to V3 in the V scale. It indeed highlights short, powerful, and technical moves that are characteristic in bouldering as opposed to long endurance climbs. Worldwide, more climbers use the “Font” scale than the V scale, but many are familiar with both. Apr 27, 2025 · Understanding the V Scale Bouldering Grade. Why do bouldering grades vary between Font and V-scale? The Font and V-scale systems were both invented in Europe but in very different cultural areas. Pros of V scale bouldering grades: It is the simplest system without multiple letters and covering a range of numbers more distinct from other route grades. 8 WI4, Grade V. Dec 9, 2024 · Grading scales vary depending on the part of the world and the discipline of rock climbing. The V-scale is used to rate bouldering problems in the United States, starting at V0. As I started to rock climb I got confused by these different rating systems and their Apr 27, 2025 · Other countries, such as Europe, typically follow the French V-scale. For example, if you go to the gym in the UK, most of Europe and Asia, you’ll find French climbing grades. In contrast, the V Scale is the de facto grading standard in the US. Grades can be subjective and may vary slightly between locations or setters. I and II: Half a day or less for the technical (5th class) portion of… Read More »Climbing Grade Apr 27, 2025 · The French scale, or algo-1, is the standard for the sport climbing in Europe. The V scale is an open-ended grading scale, meaning there is no top level of difficulty. Both 6b and 6b+ graded boulders in the Apr 27, 2025 · In terms of grading systems, the V scale is in proximity to the French Font-grade system, which is more commonly used in Europe. Today there exist multiple bouldering grading scales, but you are most likely to encounter two: V Scale; Font Scale; Let’s look at each. The above appears courtesy of the American Alpine Journal. S. In the French Sport system, grades begin at 1 and increase to 9. They do not indicate time commitment or duration. Once you get beyond the easiest grades, V-scale and Font grades line up pretty nicely. Oct 12, 2020 · This is because the grades are rated using the same number of intervals. In fact, it was John Gill’s B-system, advanced over a half-century ago as Gill devoted himself almost exclusively to bouldering, that set the stage for today’s popular, open-ended V-system. of the French scale. We will have a look at the 6 most common grading systems: Apr 27, 2025 · Climbing grades are a useful point of reference. The V-scale, which was created solely for bouldering, offers a cleanly linear grade. Free climbing grades are generally understood to reflect the hardest move or section on a particular route. Apr 27, 2025 · Converting climbing grades such as French 6c+ to the V scale can be a challenge. YDS and French grades don’t always line up precisely, but below is a comparison chart showing how they compare. Oct 23, 2023 · The Bouldering V Scale. k. These bouldering grades differ from the grades used in traditional rock climbing, and use many different systems including: Huevo "V" grades-or the V-scale, Fontainebleau technical grades (Font-scale), route colors, Peak District grades, and British technical grades. Climbing grades provide guidance, suggesting the length of time an experienced climber might take to complete the route: Grade I: A couple of hours; Grade II: Closer to four hours; Grade III: Four to six hours (most of the day) Grade IV: One very long day; Grade V: Two days (requires an overnight stay) Grade VI: Two-plus days #2. The French scale makes use of numbers, letters and plus (+) grades to further refine the grading process, giving it more intermediate steps than the UIAA scale. Apr 27, 2025 · Climbing grade systems, including the V scale and French grading scale, help categorize the difficulty of bouldering and sport climbing routes nationwide. In the United States for sport climbing and other forms of rock climbing we use the Yosemite Decimal System. com link. The French scale is usually prefixed with an (f) to distinguish it from the Fontainbleau scale . 6a to V-scale. Go to climbing r/climbing • View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Any one who has been climbing for a while has probably been confronted with the different systems. I go bouldering at a gym in Norway and this is their grading system. The V-scale uses only whole numbers and is much more widely adopted in the U. French Grades. S Mar 17, 2012 · Bouldering is a bit different than some other forms of rock climbing and it has its own grades, the V-scale, for defining the difficulty of the climb. Standards vary among climbing areas. Use this chart as a rough guide to compare climbing and bouldering grades in other parts of the world. Apr 29, 2024 · The most common free-climbing grading scales are the French, US or Yosemite Decimal System, and the UK scale. Arguably, this is where bouldering began, and the open-ended grade scale that was developed ranges from 1A to 9A (at time of writing). Let's take a look at how to read grades on the French scale by examining the grade 7a+. The U. and Australia also have rating systems, but they are less recognized. Rock Climbs. Bouldering grades are graded using different systems across different regions. While the V Scale breaks down the difficulty of boulder problems into 19 different levels of difficulty. Climbing Mt. The V scale includes a few extra symbols for grades below V1. Since grades are a reflection of what people care about, a grade of 50 can indicate something different in one location versus another. Starting from the easiest, they are: VB, V0-, V0, V0+. Apr 27, 2025 · Mixed climbing grades generally go from M1 to M12, with M13-16 in existence but not typically used. The French Rock Climbing Grade System The French ranking of outdoor, bolted, and sport climbing routes is the dominant climbing grading system to abide by. Changing 8b+ Font grades to the V scale—for instance, translating 8b+ to V14—serves United States climbers. It must be noted, this is an open-ended scale, so there could be harder grades in the future! Are bouldering grades harder than sport climbing grades? It is hard to compare! Even so, as a boulderer, I would lean towards saying, “yes”. The V-scale is the most popular bouldering grade system in use in the United States. For a more in depth look at all the different climbing grade systems, check out this article from Explorers Web. Denali via the Cassin Ridge route is 5. com Apr 27, 2025 · Key Takeaways. French Scale. The V Scale. So my country uses the french scale for indoor sports climbing. While working through grades is fine, climbers need to focus on bettering themselves and having fun—not getting wrapped up in a progression of grades. Whether you're scaling indoor walls or conquering outdoor crags, understanding the intricacies of climbing difficulty rankings is essential for progression and safety. This tier is roughly equivalent to V6 in the U. Bouldering Grades V-Scale (or Hueco Scale) Aug 24, 2023 · If sport climbing is more your style, you’ll encounter a different set of grading systems. Things get weird. What is French Sport Grade 7a? French Sport Grade 7a is a notable milestone on the sport climbing grading scale. Again, the origins of the scale are in outdoor climbing and the system is open-ended, though it's a little less clear where the scale begins. Invented in France, and adopted for its simplicity, it spread to become the most widely used grading scale for sport rock climbing routes. V0 to V2 includes beginner climbs, appropriate for those just Apr 27, 2025 · The Font Scale, or French grading scale, is widely used across most of the world except for the United States. It’s older than the V scale, which John “Vermin” Sherman developed in Texas in the 1990s. Climbing Grades vs. There are other ones, like the B-Scale, the P-Scale, the Joshua Tree Scale, and a few others, but you don’t really need to know those as they are not really used. 5 YDS, 3/4a French). A bold route with easy climbing, may get the same grade as a much harder sport route, so the grade isn’t very versatile. Sep 16, 2021 · V Scale & Font Scale: The 2 Most Common Bouldering Grading Scales in Use Today. Aug 18, 2017 · It is named after a famous outdoor bouldering area called Fontainebleau in France, just outside Paris. org. The V-scale’s spectrum is expansive. qmymkkx pidmy vlfc hdlk flhlv ztwdqm wmqx yhvqwz imyqlqsc svyw