Climbing sling vs runner reddit 3, this works for wires, too) you’ll shorten the extension. Basically, once the ends are clipped together it’s identical to a normal sling. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. Aug 18, 2019 · Choosing the right climbing sling can be a difficult process. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. This is probably mostly a climbing myth perpetuated by the article that's quoted in the above link The slings doubled up are stronger yes. Crypto Dec 4, 2014 · On big multi-pitch days, I carry 14 draws - 6 BD Oz quickdraws, and 8 alpine draws on my harness. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. You can easily connect to the anchor using the climbing rope and a clove hitch, it is pretty much the standard method. The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. At ~5 bucks a sling you can get 10 for 50 and be set for a normal rack. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. It has virtually the exact same shape, feel, weight, and other characteristics as the Sterling Nylon Sewn Runner, except that it inexplicably costs about $1. There are so many different choices, and in many cases, very few differences between products. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings , and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. They allow two different options for extension, ~20cm or 60cm. Ok so I have been climbing for a little over 5 years, spending most of my time sport and trad climbing with small bits of bouldering scattered in here and there. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic rated strength is not the same concept as durability in an anchor, the most important aspect is not a single component's rated strength. . Apr 12, 2019 · We compared this sling extensively to the BlueWater Titan Runner, which is another sling that uses both Dyneema and Nylon in its construction. I tend to prefer the friends for the reasons you've mentioned. Climbing slings like that have pound-force ratings (giggity) rather than pound mass ratings. And keep in mind anyone on the internet with a strong opinion hasn't had enough experience yet. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. com Sep 1, 2023 · Our climbing testers have put these slings to the test on giant alpine routes in the Bugaboos, huge classic multi-pitch routes in Red Rocks, and on many fun days on the rocks in between, assessing and rating them along the way for optimal performance. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. cheaper; colorful The slings they had were these specialty endless slings made of Kevlar in some fancy higher denier nylon. It’s actually sort of the opposite. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. Slings are cheap, ubiquitous, and can be knotted to create different pockets. 1x Nut Tool (actually carry two, but I booty hard) 1x Rap Kit (ATC on AutoLocker, Hollowblock on non-locker) Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. I found a video of some guys testing another brand of sling rated for 24 kn, and it breaks at ~31 kn. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. The GM Climbing 16mm Nylon Sling Runner is very thin and durable. Girth hitched sling or PAS through harness, locker to bolt/chain/rats nest, pull rope from above, set rap, release anchor and go. A swami belt, Swiss Seat, Hasty Harness or Diaper Sling can all be improvised and put on without stepping into them. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. Using a double length runner girth hitched to your tie-in, knotted as shown and clipped to your belay loop allows you to unclip one end from your belay loop and tether yourself to the anc So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. In a basket hitch, the rated working load was like 1. Apr 11, 2023 · looks like an even better version of the rabbit runner! Not really. I have a big background in backpacking and long hikes. Mar 13, 2024 · If you’re short on biners, try girth-hitching a cam’s sling (fig. NYLON. Runner/ Sling. Dyneema is lighter and thinner. I personally use 1. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. As an aside I don't think anyone outside of totally new climbers pay full price for slings. The discussion over nylon vs. The girth-hitch masterpoint at an ice-screw belay, using a 120 cm sling. So we tested it. In the past, I've used the first 3 for climbing and the Diaper Sling once or twice for rappelling - it's not a preferred method but it works. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. Dyneema all the way. Discover the fascinating world of slings and runners: From the many ways to use them down to how to choose the right one for your very own climbing adventure Jul 5, 2020 · The 240cm slings weigh very little so I like to bring them to wrap around trees, long extensions to prevent rope drag, etc The other 30% of the time I’ll swap out as needed for the climb. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. A few slings are also made of a blend between the two types of fibers. same as everything in climbing, the situation determines best practice. Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. There is a third type of sling, made of cord similar to a climbing rope. 12c-ish plateau. Trad climbers will often forgo the Personal Anchor System and just use slings, since they have many on their harness already. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner is far and away the most economical choice you can make when it comes to buying a sewn sling. Of course, you wouldn't knot Dyneema webbing. 1x 240cm nylon runner that is rarely used, only for the biggest trees (and often as a basket hitch) or when the three pieces are in wildly different spots. Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Nylon stays strong longer and doesn't slip as much when used in a girth or clove hitch. 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. rated strength is NOT even close to a direct measure of safety, since an anchor is a system and no single component should ever be subjected to the breaking strength of a cord. Tied to my harness, alpine butterfly in the middle, and 8 at the end. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema. In my opinion the extendable sling doesn't often offer enough extension to avoid using/carrying draws and n most cases, but will create an added margin of safety by allowing you to extend to avoid a feature that might cause the draw to unclip or lever over an edge. Basically it’s a regular sling/runner, sewn shut in the middle. Overview: Nylon vs Dyneema . The only thing I use sewn nylon slings for top roping a sport route, but that's only occasionally. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. Also slings tend to last quite a long time - I have had mine for at least a thousand pitches of climbing and they are holding up. I was using a runner to extend and a hollow block for backup which is unnecessary in assisted brake mode and actually makes rapping worse IMHO. 6 million pounds. Read on for the best recommendations. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Therefore since the protection will pull out at a force far below the breaking strength of your sling, the sling will NEVER feel enough force to snap. GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner. 1x 120cm nylon runner tied into what I call a "baby quad". This post dives quickly into the pro’s and con’s along with the best uses and the rest of the post is dedicated to explaining exactly why we’ve labeled them as such. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. I also have 3 120cm cord slings for emergency Prusiks, for bailing, or if I run out of slings. I have just in the past year started dedicated training in an attempt to breakthrough a v6-7, 5. In this article, we aim to help you narrow down your choices. I'm on the hype train, and I'm excited to start using overcoming isometrics and left-side/right-side protocols for a lot more training. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, tied into a small quad for bolts. Jan 13, 2022 · Ice-Screw Belay: A very similar rigging works with ice screws as well, but uses a double-length (120 cm) runner instead. The weakest link is the protection(Cam, nut, whatever) you put into the wall. My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. Need to sling a tree or horn? Grab a runner. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. Keep slack out of your static anchors. best to gain experience using slings, cord, rope and develop a feel for what works best for YOU in THAT situation. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. I just put this together from closet gear after receiving a Tindeq as a gift a few weeks ago. 1x Quad Length (Grey) Nylon Sling, used mostly for basket hitches on trees. Multipitch rappelling generally requires some kind of tether, in which case a sling or a PAS will suffice. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but people like Dyneema because it's l I have a double rack of cams, one set friends, one set C4s. You will typically use a 2. You can also use them on natural features like trees, threads, and chickenheads. Photos in some of my old climbing books show Brit climbers using tied cordage for extenders. Shop for Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. I’m looking into getting into more alpine climbing so I was wondering what’s best for me moving on. But the weakest point in your safety system will fail first. Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. Dyneema. I have both the mega and the giga, I thought they were really jumpy for rapping. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit an Aug 31, 2020 · Black Diamond Nylon Runner; Petzl ANNEAU Polyester Sling; How to Choose the Best Climbing Slings for Your Needs Nylon vs. Maybe no long slings. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). 5 cm (1 in) wide tubular webbing to build an anchor. Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. BD 18mm nylon Feb 11, 2016 · You’ve seen all the sling choices and aren’t sure: Dyneema, Spectra, Dynex or Nylon. I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. The Open Loop Sling, like many other Dyneema slings, is made primarily with Dyneema in the middle as the load bearing part of the sling, but with a larger than average amount of Nylon on the edges to provide elasticity and color. The slings were like 6” in diameter and like 20’ long. Runners are most often used in traditional climbing (trad climbing) to lengthen anchors, prevent rope from dragging through rock and to keep gear from becoming Apr 25, 2012 · On slabs, the gear swings forward and gets in the way; on steeps, the gear sling swings back and feels like it is pulling you off. Flat webbings are what you typically see on your backpack straps. Don't bring a hammer as a one size fits all when you really want a screw driver. Its stronger to connect 2 slings with a carabiner or use a long sling, but it doesn't strike me as that silly of a thing to do as long as you know the outcome. There are 2 types of webbings — tubular webbing and flat webbing. Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. Cheers. You only use tubular webbing for climbing. They tend to be more versatile and durable than dyneema slings, and they are cheap enough to cut up or leave behind. Yeah, this is probably the best way. The label on that is the actual breaking strength of the sling, rather than the 10x safety factor you see on industrial stuff. If it was small diameter (1/4" Goldline) it was usually doubled. The climbing rope is strong, dynamic, and can be adjusted to any length you need. half the strength and weight of a normal sling. Just totally absurd and your video reminded me of those When it comes to climbing, slings are the connecting link between you, the wall and your belay device – a symbiosis that requires both trust and a certain amount of technical know-how. Business, Economics, and Finance. 5, but don’t do this with a wired nut; the cinching action of the girth-hitch can cut the sling in a fall). As explained @ 1:30-1:35 it's for redundancy. The alpine draws are made with a BD 10mm dynex runner, 60cm long (22 inches extended), and 2 Madrock ultralight wiregate biners. 1x Double Length (Blue) Nylon Sling, used mostly for small anchors. As others have said, if the quickdraws could bump against rock then could be worth a quad for top rope. Pros. Nov 9, 2021 · A PAS is not necessary for multipitch. I almost never climb with a gear sling, for this reason. See full list on rei. I always clove in with the rope while climbing, but I’ll use a sling or a PAS as a personal anchor while rappelling. You can usually get them 40% off if you shop the sales. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. It has a recognizable aesthetic and is available in two different colors: a bright orange color that makes it easy to spot and distinguish, and a grey-rock colored version that blends more into the rock climbing wall environment. I like to use a runner-runner (aka sling-sling) to free up some biners and room on my harness. Draws made from slings and biners (aka alpine draws) are nice for trad climbing when you're climbing multiple pitches below your limit. Tubular webbings can be sewn or tied to form a runner or sling. I still usually have the extra biners racked as a football at the back of my harness in case I need them, but usually rack 4 or 5 slings on the sling (as shown in the video), maybe more if I am expecting a pitch with slung chickenheads for pro. In a girth hitch they were like 300,000ish pounds. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. Context is everything. As others have said. Then I found out the best practice for rapping with brake assist is to clip the device directly to your belay loop. Aug 18, 2019 · In general, climbing slings these days are made of two different types of fibers: Dyneema (or another type of Ultra-High-Molecular-Weight Polyethelene), and Nylon. Personally, I think the whole static vs. 1x 120cm nylon runner, often used for a clove v configuration or girthing a medium tree when I'm not worried about redundancy. What you're doing is fine. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. Mar 13, 2019 · A simple nylon or dyneema sling can function as a personal anchor, although such a thing is certainly less versatile than the other options. You may end up breaking down an alpine draw to use its components elsewhere, which is why it’s always nice to have a few The only issue I can see with making your own is if you make a normal length sling, and double it so it's shorter as a quick-draw, there might be some hanky panky if you're trying to extend it to the regular length by unclipping the biner, clipping 1 strand and then pulling. Need quick equalization between two pieces? Take that sling and make a sliding X. 5 meter rope tether. Pick just the extension you need and no more. the knot might snag. By doubling the runner through the cam’s sling (fig. 25 less, making the choice between the two simple. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. So currently I use a pre built quad with a 120cm sling for sport climbing. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. Maybe no quickdraws. This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. Good job for using an autoblock/prussik. if it is, you did something else very wrong. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. The extra length is needed to ensure the ice screws are situated at least 30 cm apart, so they won’t both fail in case of an ice fracture. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. I still carry at least one tied double length runner because it's easy to untie and thread/use for rap tat. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. May 18, 2021 · To make matters more complicated, slings fill many more roles than one on a typical trad climb. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. The one HUGE exception to my gear sling hatred is for some squeezes and OWs, where it is advantages to have the gear on a sling on the outside-side of your body. qunt cwx ujnsc odv ennex vhzyt mnda sofot pwipb rmuley wgfqhx mweg xrkeh smmognj ogw